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    舌尖上糍粑的綿香

    更新時間: 2017-03-10 閱讀:

      舌尖上糍粑的綿香

      文/迎客松

      有些東西遠去了,再也回不來了,但是在記憶中不管時光多么久遠,依然那么清晰,那么溫暖,那么香濃。

      印象中,每逢時令進入臘月,對于我們這些盼望過年的孩子們來說,臘八以后天天是年。家家戶戶開始打掃積塵,籌備年貨,除了走親串友必備的禮品須得購買,大多的食品都是就地取材,每一戶人家開始宰殺一年來飼養的雞鴨豬羊,一部分用來腌制,以備年后招待賓客和早稻栽種時農忙期間沾點葷味,一部分新鮮的肉食則懸掛于堂屋的木檁條上,在年節中被一塊一塊取下來,成了碟中菜肴。

      殺年豬,打年魚,這些在全國各地大同小異的風俗就不必細說了,我想說說鄂東人家鄉村年的風俗之一的打糍粑。

      糍粑講究的是一個糍性,一定要用品質好的糯米,淘洗干凈,不得有一點點砂石,將蒸熟的糯米舂得看不到米粒也是糍的關鍵。打糍粑時,一般是幾家人合伙,一家一家輪著打。因為舂的時候也需四個有勞力的人一起,一人手里拿著一根舂棍(專用的丁字形工具)。商定好打糍粑的日子后,大家開始淘米,備好木柴,把石臼抬到第一戶打糍粑的人家。這一天起,村莊里開始飄著糯米的清香,天空著裊娜著淡淡的輕煙。用木蒸(一種圓柱形的木制工具)將糯米蒸熟后,倒進石臼里,四個人開始有節奏地舂著,一起一落,有力道和技巧,一般初參與的人會因為跟不其他人的上節奏而手忙腳亂,往往是力氣花了,人也累得不行。

      在熱氣騰騰的屋子里,聽著大人們嗨嗬嗨嗬的打粑聲,香噴噴的粑香,饞著我們這些圍著石臼和大人們轉的小孩。一蒸籠糯米舂成糍粑大約要舂半個多小時,期間打粑的人要將整個石臼里舂過的糯米翻過來再舂,直到看不到飯粒狀,糍粑像揉好的一大團麥面一樣,柔軟而白,估摸差不多時,大人們開始把舂棍插進糍粑里,圍著石臼轉呀轉,接著就聽見有人喊了一聲“起”,四根木棍同時舉起來,一大團糍粑就出了石臼,抬到預先布置好的門板上。這時候,就有人抓起一團熱氣騰騰的糍粑,包裹一些砂糖遞給我們這些小孩,然后他們開始用印子做成各種形狀的糍粑來,大的、小的、圓的、方的。隔兩三天后,再把涼了的糍粑放進一個小水缸里,浸泡著,過一段時間,再換一次清水,這樣就能存放很久,一般做糍粑多的人家可以吃到五月農忙時節。

      糍粑的吃法也很多,常見的是煎、炸、煮,撒上一點鹽或者沾點糖干吃,亦或取出一塊來煮面條,也可切成小丁塊煮米酒,最好吃的當然是下在有葷的湯里,總之,它的味美在于糯、香、軟,吃過之后也耐餓。有一種最難忘的吃法和滋味,莫過于家里土灶灶火烘烤出來的糍粑,那皮脆,綿軟,糯香,再也尋覓不到了。記得小時候,母親在做早飯時,常常烤一塊糍粑,用手帕包著,送給田地里干活的父親,也會給我們烤一塊兩面鼓鼓的,皮微有點焦黃的糍粑。

      那時候,糍粑不光是自己家里吃,也是走親串戚的禮品,我們會背著一大塊去親戚家拜年,一些親戚來我們家時也會帶著一大塊糍粑,一般城里的親戚都喜歡這些農村自家做的又糯又香的糍粑。而今,臘月里家里也會有些親戚送來糍粑,但不再是那種純手工舂出來的了,現在農村里都用機器打粑,種田的人少了,糯米的品質也大不如以前,有些還是以粘米來替代,糍粑的糯性、綿軟的味道就不如小時候吃到的一樣。那種手工印花的大塊糍粑,再也看不到上面的福字,吉祥如意,花好月圓等文字圖形,幾乎就此絕跡。

      中國農村年,隨著生活習俗的變遷,人事蒼茫,很多味道,很多百年的風俗,淡了,遠了,但是,在我們這一輩人的心里仍然扎著根。

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